The Complete Guide to Green Walls
Green walls (also called living walls or vertical gardens) are installations of plants on vertical surfaces. They appear indoors or outdoors, from office feature walls to full building facades.
Green walls bring several benefits. They improve air quality, reduce noise, and add visual interest.
Inside, they can soften acoustics and lift staff mood. Research links greenery with lower stress and faster recovery.
On exteriors, they help cool buildings by shading and evaporative cooling – cutting wall temperatures by up to 14°C (25°F).
This guide covers every type of green wall: indoor and outdoor, living and artificial.
It includes design tips, light level advice, maintenance needs, costs, and common questions.
Interior Green Wall Systems
Interior green walls add vegetation to indoor spaces like lobbies, conference rooms, and offices. Below are the main categories of interior walls, each with its features, uses, pros, cons, and care notes.
Living Walls
Living walls are truly “living” vertical gardens with irrigation. These come in various system types:
- Modular Panels: Panels or frames that attach to the wall. Each panel contains plants in a substrate or media with built-in drip irrigation. These modules clip together or mount side-by-side.
- Felt-Pocket Systems: Fabric “pockets” or pouches hung on a frame. Plants are inserted into pockets of synthetic felt, and irrigation wets the entire pocket panel.
- Mobile Living walls: Freestanding units on wheels, often double-sided. They include irrigation and work well as green room dividers in flexible or rented spaces.
- Custom-Built Green Walls: Bespoke structures (e.g. troughs, framework of planters) built on-site. These may combine soil and hydroponic techniques to fit unique spaces or designs.
Regardless of type, living walls work by supplying plants with water and nutrients via an irrigation system. Green walls transform sterile interiors into biophilic spaces, boost air humidity slightly, and serve as living artwork.
Pros of Living Walls
- Biophilic Impact: Actual plants and foliage. They can include a wide variety of species (ferns, pothos, philodendron, bromeliads, etc.) to create a rich texture and even seasonal interest.
- Air Quality: Living walls consume CO₂ and some VOCs, improving indoor air.
- Aesthetics: Greenery is dynamic, growing and changing over time (better visual effect than static art).
- Customization: Choose plant mix for color, pollination, or function (e.g. air-purifying plants). Soil systems allow bulbs and flowering plants, hydroponic can support air-purifying or even edible plants.
- Space-Saving: Adds greenery without using floor space – ideal where space is tight.
- Visual Impact: Creates a striking impression. Often used in entrance atriums with signage to make a bold statement
Cons of Living Walls
- Maintenance: Require ongoing care. Hydroponic and felt systems need constant monitoring (nutrient levels, pH, pump operation); soil walls are lower-maintenance by comparison.
- Cost: Higher upfront and ongoing costs (installation and maintenance contracts).
- Weight & Water: Heavy when saturated (up to ~75 kg/m² for dense modular systems) and potential for water leakage if not sealed.
- Light Requirements: Plants need enough light; some systems in dim areas may fail without supplemental grow lights.
Design & Maintenance
- Irrigation: Living walls incorporate drip or capillary irrigation. Hydroponic systems need precisely balanced water and nutrients; soil-based walls retain moisture better, so watering can be less frequent. In all cases, a pump/reservoir or tap connection is required, and drainage must be planned.
- Plant Selection: Shade-tolerant houseplants (pothos, ferns, mosses) suit low-light walls; brighter walls can support flowering species. Soil-based media allow bulbs and a greater plant range. Many designers use evergreen plants for year-round coverage, adding a few seasonal bloomers for interest.
- Growth & Pruning: Plants will eventually outgrow modules. Regular pruning and trimming prevent overcrowding. Expect periodic plant replacements.
- Structural Load: Verify wall load capacity. Many panel systems weigh 30–80 kg/m² when wet. An engineer should approve the mounts.
- Access: Ensure installers have safe access (scaffolding or lifts) and that the finished wall can be serviced (platforms, catwalks, or permanent walkways).
Artificial Walls (Interior)
Artificial green walls use faux foliage to achieve a “green” look without living plants. They normally consist of artificial leaves and stems attached to rigid panels or mats.
- How it works: Realistic fake plants (such as vinyl or silk plants) are mounted on panels that clip onto the wall or frame. They are designed to look like living walls but require no soil or irrigation.
- Ideal uses: Indoor lobbies, offices or retail spaces where maintenance resources are limited, or where water damage is a concern. They are also used to add greenery to areas with no natural light or poor humidity control.
Pros:
Artificial walls require virtually no upkeep – no watering, no pruning, and no pest control. They stay green year-round and are allergy-friendly (no pollen or mold).
High-quality panels are durable and hold their appearance indefinitely. Installation is straightforward (lightweight panels mount easily) and they incur no irrigation or lighting costs.
Cons:
Artificial plants offer few of the benefits of live ones. While they can still support a sense of biophilia by mimicking natural forms, they don’t improve air quality or produce oxygen.
Over time, they can collect dust – though a quick dusting now and then keeps them looking fresh. Up close, even high-quality faux plants may appear less convincing than real foliage.
Design & Maintenance:
Artificial panels come in many styles and textures, so design flexibility is high. Mounting requirements are minimal (normally requires a level surface and secure fixings).
Maintenance is limited to occasional dusting or gentle cleaning of the foliage.
Preserved Moss Walls
Preserved moss walls use real moss that has been harvested and treated so it remains soft and green without growing. The moss can then be glued or attached to panels, frames or direct to the wall.
- How it works: Natural forest moss (often reindeer or sheet moss) is treated with glycerin or other preservatives to lock in moisture and color. Panels of this preserved moss are then mounted on walls. No watering or light is needed, since the moss is “frozen” in its preserved state.
- Ideal uses: Great for locations with no or low daylight (e.g. interior corridors) where live plants would struggle. Also used for acoustic decoration – preserved moss is highly sound-absorbent.
Pros:
These walls are very low-maintenance. They never need water or sunlight, and they don’t dry out or turn brown under typical indoor conditions.
A preserved moss wall can remain lush for years with just occasional gentle dusting. Moss panels also provide acoustic dampening (up to ~90% absorption of mid/high sound frequencies), so they reduce echo and noise.
The natural texture of real moss is attractive and soothing.
Cons:
Preserved moss is not alive – it doesn’t grow or change. While it mimics nature and offers some visual biophilic value, it brings none of the air quality benefits of living plants. It can’t recover from damage (people do like to touch it) and is best suited for dry indoor areas.
High humidity or outdoor exposure will cause it to break down.
Moss walls also have a strong scent for a week or two after installation, but this fades completely and doesn’t linger.
Design & Maintenance:
Preserved moss panels are sometimes framed and installed like artwork or else cover entire walls.
They can be cut into shapes or integrated with logos for creative designs. No irrigation is needed, but keep humidity in a moderate range (extreme dryness or humidity can affect the moss texture).
Living Pictures
A “living picture” is essentially a framed or contained living wall – a shallow planter that hangs on a wall like a piece of art.
- How it works: The system is a flat, rectangular container (often just a few inches deep) with a modular front and a plant-able growing medium inside it. Small plants are placed in the modular sections. The entire frame then hangs on the wall – hence the name “Living Picture”.
- Ideal uses: Because they are relatively small and self-contained, living pictures are used like botanical artwork to green up small spaces without a full wall installation.
Pros:
Living pictures create a striking visual centerpiece – a patch of real plants in a frame. They allow a mix of plants (for colour or texture) in a compact footprint. They require much less infrastructure than a large wall.
Cons:
Because the planter is shallow, plant selection is limited. They still need some care: periodic watering (keeping the water reservoir topped up) and plant maintenance.
These frames can be heavy when filled, so wall mounting must be secure.
Design & Maintenance:
Treat a living picture like any hanging garden. Keep the water topped up. Trim or replace plants that outgrow the frame or die. Hang the frame in bright, indirect light if possible.
Movable Green Dividers
Movable green dividers (or green furniture) are portable or freestanding plant panels used as room partitions. They are like potted plant walls on wheels or with a stable base. Examples include living office screens with wheels or planters with tall plants (e.g. the Naava or LiveDivider type systems).
How it works: These units integrate plants into a mobile structure. They may have shelves or pockets filled with plants on one or both sides. Some include features like magnetic whiteboards or even built-in lighting. Many are self-watering: a hidden water tank supplies the plants, and only occasional refill is needed.
Ideal uses: Open offices, coworking spaces, schools, and events. When flexible space partitioning is needed (for privacy, to define zones, or as movable décor), green dividers provide a living barrier. They are often used to subtly segment an area without hard walls.
Pros:
Mobility is the key benefit – you can reconfigure them or roll them to cleaning stations. They green both sides of the partition, maximizing impact.
They are generally easier to install (no drilling into a wall, just position them where needed).
Cons:
They can be heavy (especially when watered) and require a flat floor to roll smoothly.
These dividers still need watering and sunlight (or built-in grow lights), and roots can outgrow the container over time. They often cost more due to their mechanical features.
Design & Maintenance:
Choose sturdy, tipped-resistant bases. These units need an occasional refill of water/nutrients and some basic plant care (trimming, plant replacement). If integrated, irrigation technology may alert you when water is low.
Exterior Green Wall Systems
Exterior green walls and facades bring plant life to the outside of buildings. They must withstand weather and often provide building insulation and habitat.
Living Walls (Exterior)
Exterior living walls are similar in concept to interior ones but built for outdoors. They typically have robust construction, drainage, and choice of hardy plants.
- How it works: These systems attach to building exteriors or freestanding structures. They often use modular panels with soil or hydroponic media, or large troughs/boxes. A complete irrigation system is mandatory (usually with drainage into the ground or a reservoir). Typical systems include a structural backing (drip tray or substrate box), waterproofing, and irrigation at the top feeding down.
- Ideal uses: Building facades (new or retrofits), screening parking structures, covering blank walls, insulating glass buildings, or on fences. Also used on construction hoardings (temporary installation) or inside courtyards. Exterior walls can support taller vegetation and even vines under a trellis.
Pros:
Exterior living walls can significantly affect microclimate.
By shading walls and through evapotranspiration, they cool surfaces – one study recorded wall surface drops of ~14°C compared to bare wall. This reduces AC demand. They capture rainwater and slow runoff, improving stormwater management.
Facade plants trap particulates and absorb CO₂, enhancing air quality. They provide habitat and connectivity for wildlife: native wildflowers and grasses on walls can feed bees and insects.
Aesthetic and branding benefits are high (e.g. covering unsightly elements with gardens).
Cons:
These systems are expensive to install and maintain. The plantings face full sun, wind, and cold, so plant mortality can be high if not chosen well.
Structural concerns are critical: saturated green walls can weigh 50–100 kg/m² (e.g. ~75 kg/m²) plus wind loads.
Design & Maintenance:
Location: Orientation matters. South or west-facing walls get the most sun, allowing flowering, sun-loving species; north-facing walls require shade-tolerant plants. Wind and exposure must be checked.
Irrigation: A fully engineered irrigation system is needed. This often includes a pump, filter, and controller in a “plant room” or outdoor cabinet. Overflow drains must be directed safely. In freezing climates, use frost-protected water lines and timers.
Support Structure: Engage a structural engineer to verify that the wall or frame can bear the load. Anchor points must be compatible with the facade material.
Plant Selection: Use hardy, low-maintenance perennials, shrubs and grasses suited to the local climate. Incorporate many evergreens for year-round cover; include flowering plants or habitat boxes to support pollinators. Native species are preferred for biodiversity.
Access: Plan scaffolding or maintenance access from the start. Facades may require rope access, catwalks, or lifts for pruning and repairs.
Regulations: Check local building codes (e.g. wind load, fire rating of panels) and standards (CWCT, BREEAM, etc.). Green facades can contribute to sustainability credits but may need planning approval.
Artificial Green Walls (Exterior)
Exterior artificial walls use UV-stable faux plants for outdoor greenery. These panels mimic a living wall but are made of plastic or polyester foliage designed for sunlight and weather.
- How it works: Artificial leaves are affixed to rigid panels or lattices, which mount on a wall or fence. Outdoor variants are treated to resist fading and can include materials like preserved preserved moss combined with synthetic greenery.
- Ideal uses: Facades of buildings, fences, rooftop screens, or any outdoor wall where you want greenery but want to avoid irrigation or where real plants won’t thrive (e.g. very high walls or shady areas). They’re also popular for décor in outdoor restaurants or events, and for covering construction hoardings.
Pros:
No watering, no seasonal die-off – the wall stays green and dense year-round. They require virtually no maintenance (just rinse off dust or pollen occasionally). There is no risk of structural damage from roots or moisture.
Artificial walls can be installed quickly and instantly transform an area.
Cons:
Artificial walls offer none of the ecological services of living walls. They do not insulate, cool, or support wildlife; they may even contribute to microplastics if not high quality.
Sunlight will eventually fade the colours (though quality, UV rated products resist this). The look can appear plastic or repetitive up close, so selection of realistic panels is important.
Wildflower Walls (Exterior)
A wildflower wall is a green wall sown or planted with native wildflower and grass species, creating a vertical “meadow.”
- How it works: These systems use panels or seed mats filled with a soil/gravel blend and seeded with wildflowers and native grasses. The installation captures rain or is irrigated until plants establish. As the plants grow, they bloom and attract pollinators. Systems like Vertical Meadow use a mix of native grasses and flowers to create a lush vertical habitat.
- Ideal uses: Site hoardings, construction facades, sustainable building projects, or urban infill walls where biodiversity is a goal. They can be temporary (e.g. covering scaffolding for a season) or permanent features of eco-friendly developments.
Pros:
Wildflower walls boost urban biodiversity. They become a year-round habitat for bees, butterflies and birds, effectively “stepping stones” between green spaces.
They offer seasonal colour and a dynamic look. During growth they improve public view (greening an otherwise bare wall or scaffold) and damp dust and noise a bit.
Cons:
These walls are seasonal in appearance. Many wildflower species die back in winter, so the wall can look sparse or brown in off-season.
They require more maintenance than a simple vine wall – you may need irrigation for germination, weeding of invasive species, and periodic reseeding or patching. The structure must hold soil and may require deeper panels for root depth.
Design & Maintenance:
Use locally appropriate seed mixes, often including perennials (clovers, knapweeds) and annuals (poppies, marigolds) to ensure blooms throughout the growing season. Provide irrigation at first (wildflower plants need water to establish).
In late autumn, the old stems can remain as nesting habitat or be trimmed to recycle nutrients. These walls usually start blooming in late spring and continue into summer.
Ivy Walls
Ivy screens (or vine screens) use climbing plants (often evergreen vines) trained on a trellis or frame to create a living wall or privacy screen.
- How it works: Vines such as English ivy (Hedera), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), Virginia creeper (P. quinquefolia), and others are grown up a trellis or directly over a wall. Alternatively, panels of ivy plugs (often with roots embedded in coir matting) can be attached to walls. The plants cling or wrap as they grow, covering the surface.
- Ideal uses: Exterior fences, garden walls, unsightly structures, or for privacy/coverage in outdoor spaces. Ivy screens provide evergreen cover in mild climates, creating a natural green fence.
Pros:
Once established, many vines are low-maintenance (just periodic trimming). They provide year-round leaf cover (English ivy stays green) or vibrant fall colour (Boston ivy).
Ivy can quickly cover large areas, and as it matures it insulates and shades the wall. Screens are often used for privacy or to hide blank walls.
Ivy also dampens noise somewhat and improves air quality slightly by trapping particulates.
Cons:
Climbing vines can damage buildings if not managed carefully. Clinging roots (like those of English Ivy or Virginia Creeper) can penetrate mortar or wood, widening cracks and trapping moisture.
Over time, heavy ivy can compromise brick walls or sidings. Ivy can also be invasive; English ivy is non-native in many areas and can out-compete native plants. Furthermore, ivy screens lose leaves in winter if deciduous, or can mat up gutters.
Design & Maintenance:
Use a supportive structure: install a trellis or cable system so vines do not attach directly to sensitive surfaces.
Prefer vine species that twine or have tendrils (like grapes or clematis) rather than ones with adhesive rootlets. Regular trimming is needed to keep growth in check. Inspect the wall periodically: if cracks form, vines may need to be cut back. On buildings, skip climbing vines altogether unless the material (e.g. concrete) tolerates them.
Lighting Requirements
Interior living walls need adequate light. Most wall plants require at least 1000 lux at the leaf surface to thrive. In practical terms, this often means installing full-spectrum LED grow lights above the wall. The lights should provide both blue (∼430–440 nm) and red (∼640–660 nm) wavelengths for photosynthesis, though the lighting can be tuned to emit a pleasing white light (for good colour rendering and aesthetics). Light uniformity is important: designers aim for a ratio of minimum/maximum illuminance ≥0.33 so that all plants receive some light.
In technical terms, lighting is measured by Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD). A target PPFD of about 35 μmol·m⁻²·s⁻¹ on the foliage is recommended for green walls. Over a full day, plants often need a Daily Light Integral (DLI) of roughly 1.5–4 mol·m⁻²·d⁻¹ (the exact need depends on the plant species). In many offices, natural daylight (even from windows) falls short of this, so supplemental LEDs are used. Work with a lighting engineer or horticultural lighting specialist to calculate lamp power and placement.
- Provide LED fixtures rated for plant growth (or use high-CRI white LEDs).
- Mount lights 1–2 m from the wall for even coverage.
- Avoid UV-heavy lighting indoors (green wall plants don’t need UV and extra UV can cause fast, ungainly growth).
- Use timers to give plants ~10–14 hours of light per day (mimicking natural days).
- In daylight zones, choose plants suited to the light level (shade-loving ferns versus sun-loving bromeliads)
Planning and Installation Considerations
Before installing any green wall, careful planning is crucial. Key considerations include:
- Structural Support: Assess the load-bearing capacity of the wall or support structure. A fully saturated green wall can weigh at least 50–100 kg/m² . A structural engineer should verify that the wall and anchorage can handle this weight plus wind or seismic loads. For light planters, ground-anchored frames may suffice; for heavy cladding systems, special hangers and infill panels are used.
- Waterproofing and Drainage: Any irrigation leaks can damage the building. Install a waterproof membrane or gutter behind the green wall to collect overflow. Provide proper drainage lines to carry excess water safely away. In exterior walls, plan for stormwater connection or soakaway (for interior, a drip tray and drain to plumbing).
- Irrigation System: Most living walls require an irrigation pump and control unit. The pump, pipes, and possibly a nutrient reservoir often live in a nearby cabinet or “plant room”. Ensure you have space and access for this equipment. Plan piping routes from a water source and to the wall, and include backflow prevention as needed. In cold climates, winterize exposed pipes.
- Orientation and Environment: Consider sunlight, wind, and heat. South/west walls receive intense sun and can support more sun-loving plants, whereas north walls need shade-tolerant species. Also note any heat sources (e.g. windows, HVAC vents) that might stress plants. Plan for microclimate: walls under eaves get rain, exposed facades dry out quickly.
- Access for Maintenance: Life safety is key – plan how gardeners will reach the wall. Include scaffolding anchors, permanent catwalks, or ensure space for lifts. Design for occasional removal of panels or trimming from a platform.
- Safety and Codes: Check fire codes (some panels must meet Class B-s3,d2 ratings for cladding). Use materials rated for interior use if inside, or UV/weather-resistant products outside. In some jurisdictions, green facades or certain heights may require permits or consultations.
- Electrical and Other Services: Indoor green walls may need lighting or pumps – plan electrical circuits. Ensure any electrical equipment is rated for the damp environment of a green wall.
- Integration: Coordinate with other building systems. For example, make sure irrigation water can connect to building plumbing. Avoid routing irrigation over electrical fixtures. Incorporate the green wall into the architectural design (e.g. make irrigation controls accessible, integrate base planters as furniture).
By addressing these factors up front, you ensure the green wall will perform reliably.
Maintenance and Aftercare
Ongoing care is essential for long-term success. Living walls require routine inspections and horticultural upkeep similar to a garden or greenhouse. Below are the typical maintenance tasks:
- Regular Watering/Irrigation Checks: Verify that drip tubes or hydroponic lines are flowing. Check timers and sensors. In hydroponic systems, replenish nutrient solution and monitor pH. In soil systems, ensure the medium remains moist (but not waterlogged). If the wall is outdoors, adjust watering for season (more in summer, less in winter).
- Pruning and Trimming: Trim back any overgrown plants to maintain design shape and light exposure. Remove dead or diseased foliage promptly. In high-growth species, monthly pruning is common.
- Plant Replacement: Replace plants that die or fail to thrive. A good plant company will include free plants replacement in their maintenance contract.
- Cleaning Filters and Drippers: Clean or replace filters, flush lines to prevent algae or mineral buildup (especially in hydroponic or hard-water areas). This prevents clogs and root rot.
- Fertilization: Depending on the system, add fertilizer to the irrigation water or apply to soil periodically. Many green wall plants are light feeders, but replenishing nutrients ensures vigor.
- Inspect Structure: Check that panels and supports remain securely attached. Look for leaks, eroded support brackets, or corrosion. Repair any membrane damage immediately to prevent water ingress.
- Pest and Disease Control: Watch for insects (aphids, scale) and fungal issues. Since plant density is high, infestations can spread rapidly if unchecked.
- Seasonal Tasks: In climates with cold winters, plants may need some protection (e.g. remove sensitive species or use temporary covers). In summer heat, increase irrigation frequency. Remove leaf litter or debris that accumulates on the wall.
Overall, consistency is key. The long-term success of a living wall is dependent upon a robust maintenance and care program. Neglecting maintenance will quickly lead to plant loss and system problems.
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